Below is an excerpt from an article forwarded to me by WAWGG (Washington
Association of Wine Grape Growers). It does a nice job explaining the
use of sulfites in wine making.
How and why sulfites are used in wine
1. At the crusher: Sulfur dioxide in the form of a diluted liquid solution
is added to just-harvested grapes at the crusher to protect against
oxidation. Much of the sulfur added at this stage is effectively used up
during the subsequent fermentation, converting into what is referred to as
"bound" form, which has almost no flavor.
2. Barrel cleaning and maintenance: Sulfur dioxide was once the primary
agent used to clean barrels and larger wooden vessels like puncheons or
upright fermentation tanks; in the 19th century, this was accomplished by
burning a sulfur wick, which released SO{-2} gas. Today, while other
techniques are used in the cleaning process, winemakers often use a gas form
of sulfur dioxide to maintain a sterile environment inside of wooden
containers after cleaning.
3. In the winery: Sulfur dioxide is often used when topping up barrels that
have lost some volume of wine through evaporation. There is a chance that
microbial spoilage can occur at this point, so sulfur dioxide (as a diluted
liquid solution) may be added as a preventative measure. Additionally, low
levels of sulfur dioxide will protect against oxidation in the barrel.
4. During bottling: The bottling process can be rough on a wine, and there
is the chance of overexposure to oxygen. Winemakers will often dose a wine
with sulfur dioxide solution just prior to bottling in order to keep it in a
reductive state, protected against oxidation. This SO{-2} should dissipate
over time, although traces can remain present for longer periods in wines
bottled under less breathable enclosures, like screwcaps.
Sulfites, sulfides and sulfur: What's in a name?
Sulfite: Applied to a class of compounds that includes sulfur dioxide among
several derivatives of sulfur.
Sulfides: Volatile compounds of sulfur that can occur during fermentation.
The smell of hydrogen sulfide closely resembles that of bad eggs and is
therefore easily detectable.
Sulfur: An element and the parent of several useful compounds in winemaking;
in its various forms, it is applied at every stage from the vineyard to the
winery.
Debunking myths
There are several widespread myths about sulfur dioxide - and sulfites in
general. Here are some explanations that should help you to finally avoid
that headache in the morning:
Sulfites in red wine cause headaches. While it's true that exposure to high
levels of SO{-2} is an unpleasant experience, there's no hard evidence that
proves sulfites and SO{-2} cause migraines in red wine drinkers. A
phenomenon often called "red wine headache" is a combination of several
things, with histamines considered one likely major factor. High levels of
alcohol and residual sugar are also far more likely culprits than sulfites.
When it comes to the negative effects of sulfites, asthmatics are the most
vulnerable and need to closely monitor their intake of sulfites - or avoid
them altogether. It's worth noting though, that many foods - dried fruit,
for instance - contain higher levels of sulfites than wine. Allergic
reactions to sulfites include far more severe symptoms than headaches, like
hives and anaphylactic shock.
Red wines contain more sulfites than white wines. The higher levels of
tannin in red wines mean winemakers use less total SO{-2} in red wines than
in whites. Sulfur dioxide is sometimes used to halt fermentation for wines
that will be sweet, including many German Rieslings. Dessert wines, because
of their high levels of residual sugar, have even greater levels of added
sulfur.
Organic wines don't contain sulfites. It is impossible to produce a wine
without any sulfites, as sulfur dioxide is a naturally occurring by-product
of fermentation. Therefore, even wines with zero added SO{-2}, such as
natural and organic wines from the United States and Europe, contain small
amounts of the compound.